The reason that there is hardly any crime in the city of Split in Croatia is not because the police force is particularly effective or because the inhabitants possess more moral fiber than most – but purely because they are lazy. This is not a bad thing when you live in a city as beautiful as the heart of the Dalmatian coast is – in fact they pride themselves in their ability to laze about as after all Jesus said “Don’t do anything until I get back” or so they claim.
So when in Rome do as the Romans do – and while in Split… we did like the Spliticians did! Drink coffee, sit in the sun and most importantly – relax.
We started our day off in Split with one of the most relaxed walking tours I have ever done, this could have to do with the fact that Split is a rather small town so you can walk all the major parts of it in just about 15 minutes, or it could have to do with the stifling heat making us all sluggish – but I think it was due to our great local guide who would lead us to shady spots round the city so she could point things out while cracking great jokes. Then to top it all off she took us all out for a coffee in true Split style… walking was, after all, too much effort!
After such a strenuous morning we needed a nice hearty lunch to re-charge our batteries. We headed to a local place that our guide had gestured towards at one point – vaguely. It was down a small unmarked alleyway with nothing but a red bench outside to mark its presence. We sat up at the wooden counter and chatted to the two lovely ladies who were behind the bar cooking, they recommended the fresh calamari and the Sardine fish balls with a side of mash and beans. Sure we said!! I can honestly say that I have never had seafood with so much character and flavor which we washed down with a nice cold Pan beer – heaven!
In the heat of the day it appeared as though the city had emptied of locals, but a short walk round the cove lead us straight to them. They were all hiding from the sun at the beach where they were enthusiastically playing Picigin in the shallow water. We lolled about and watch in awe of their athleticism.
To end the day we continued on the style of Split by spending the evening with some fellow backpackers in a small seafront restaurant eating seafood late into the night. The only blemish on the whole day was a rude man who approached us and our new Canadian friends and said “I bet you can’t complete two sentences straight without using the word ‘like'” – to which we were LIKE seriously LIKE we are having a nice meal in peace and we are LIKE not hurting you or being LIKE obnoxious – but you can’t win them all and after all we were keeping with the style of Split and that kind of indignation takes more energy than should wisely be spent.
Now we are heading off to Hvar for some wine olive groves and lavender fields!